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herters59

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Reply with quote  #1 

A few years ago I made a purchase of a 1957 Crosby Sweptfin boat on an almost brand new Shorelander trailer. While this set up looks ok. Its time to put a vintage trailer under the Sweptfin. The trailer of choice will be a 1959 OB-40A with some modifications. This trailer has seen a much better life BUT as anyone reading this knows these gems can be brought back to like new condition.
 To start with this trailers tongue was rotten out on the underside. It appears that mice like to boat to. They had the tongue jammed with material and over years of setting and getting wet thus the damage. Next the plan is to change this trailer over to tear drop fenders with the flight light extensions on top. A good sand blasting, epoxy primer, some welding, straighenting, painting, and a pile of new parts.
 As this project goes along pictures will be posted of what has been done.

 Thanks D

 Pictures of the assembled trailer project were taken for future reference. Then the trailer was disassembled every part and bolt that could be taken offt was. She was stripped. But you still have to be able to tow her to the sand blaster. So once at the blaster the tongue, trailing arms, and the rims were then taken off. This trailer will now be blasted and then the blaster primes the fresh metal with an epoxy primer. Blasting and priming will generally cost about three hundred dollars.

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #2 
Thanks for the great post!  I look forward to seeing more in this series.  I have a lot of trouble with mice in my Tee Nee trailers too.  I think conduit within the square tube might be a good idea, since I have had to pull and replace the wiring so many times over the years.  Mice love to chew things!

-KevFin
herters59

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #3 

 This T Nee trailer had a rotted out section on the bottom in the original tongue. Since this is a tilt trailer the tongue sections is only about six feet long. The orginal piece of tongue may have been repairable if you had too. But I had good section of the back half of a tongue from a donor trailer. Now this replacement section had the T Nee rollers and all the adjustment holes in the sides. It was decided to fill in the extra holes on the sides and the two extra roller holes to clean up the look.
 For  the holes in the side of the tongue a  bolt slightly larger than the holes was chosen. Then each hole was drilled out to the size of the bolt. Next pieces of the bolt were cut about a quarter inch long. Each plug was inserted and then tac welded. Then hammered slightly to make sure they were level.Then  welded all the way around each plug. After welding each plug must be ground down all the way flush maybe just a little lower so you can fair them out smooth.
 Ok the plugs are done but the two roller holes need a contoured piece of metal. Since there was still plenty of good tongue material left two pieces were cut at one and a half inches wide. The ends of each piece was trimed so that each piece laid in level. Each was then tac welded in and tapped down were needed so no part of the repair piece was higher that the tongue. After that each was welded in all the way around. Then the same as the plugs grind off the excess welding add a little fairing and you are ready for primer then paint.

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herters59

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Reply with quote  #4 
Time for more modifications. This trailer came with the standard Tee Nee fenders but we are going to update it to the tear drop style with the Flight Lite extensions on top. First the old fender brace must be removed. Now this is a bit of a job because the one bolt that holds it to the main frame also holds the top of the coil in place Ya just can't get at the bolt to remove it. The best way to do this is cut the bolt off on the outside at thetop were it comes thru the brace on both sides. Then remove just one of the bolts in the panhard bar( that bar that looks sorta like a Z). Disconnect the shocks and now the top C frame will lift off. Now if you want you can remove the bottom bolt in the coil and the springs are free. When you are reassebling the top bolt must go in the spring FIRST then you do the bottom nut. You can do the top bolt with an socket extension on the inside of the coil  but the bottom you can  just - just get a wrench on the nut on the bottom bolt.
  Time to narrow the main cross frame. You need to cut 5/8 of an inch of metal from each side. This will bring you as close to the coil spring as you want to get. By cutting off the frame you help to center the fender over the tire. Next cut an 1/8 inch thick plate to match your fender brace. Drill the fender holes in the plate. Get ready to weld this to the C frame. Center the plate but make sure you have the plate high enough so that after welding you can still get a nut and a wrench on you fender bolts. Weld this in place. After this everthing can just be bolted together.
 In this restore both the fenders and the extension are fiberglass reproductions.

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herters59

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Reply with quote  #5 

 Started work on the winch stand. Had to first cut off the extra docking station that some one added. The tower had a few holes that needed welding up and then a few places with dents to fair out also some major straighting on the lower part.
 I forgot to tell the blaster not to prime the winch but he did. So I will either have to reblast that myself or paint it.  

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herters59

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Reply with quote  #6 

 Finally time for a little fun. I get to paint. I don't have a big enough shop to paint all at once. Its at least a three time shot. First the rims in white and a few parts that I paint black.
 No its not a tandem axel traier just had some extra rims to shoot.

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herters59

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Reply with quote  #7 

  I use 2002 Ford Chrome Yellow for my T Nee paint color. It takes me a bit of time to paint all the pieces if I have to do it in the cold time of year. First I shoot all the bottoms of everything and let that cure at least one day and then flip everything over and do as many pieces as I have room for. I shoot all the yellow then go back and tape off the yellow and use Rustoleumn black for the inside of the main cross beam and all the running gear. I like to use the black on these parts because if you use your trailer a lot you will get rock chips in this area. Rustoleumn black touchs up sooooo nice. It is easy to keep a trailer  looking good.
  Check out my cheap down draft  filter. When you are painting small trailer parts there is some over spary no matter how small you make your paint pattern. This fan and furnace filter really works good to pull the overspary out of the air.

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herters59

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Reply with quote  #8 

 Painting is now complet and after about a week for that to cure. Time to reassemble. The main cross beam needs the springs and Z bar put back together. Once thats done mount it to the traler and fenders and radius rods fit right up. After that reinstall the rollers down the center of the trailer. I used a long board to get them close to where they need to be. Final adjustment will come after the boats is loaded on the trailer. Everything that can will get  new bolts with nylock nuts.

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herters59

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Reply with quote  #9 

 With the trailer nearly assembled. Time to move on to the wiring. I have always purchase a trailer wire kit manufactured by Peterson this kit contained all the wires, pulgs, and had round tail lites. These round lights look close to what T Nee originally had for tailights (course T Nee's tailights  were metal and these new ones are plastic). Well the kit is no longer available everything I can find now in kit form has square newer style tailights. But you can still find all the parts individually you just don't get kit price.
 A fish tape was slid thru the frame rail from the back to the front. Then the three wire harness- Brown (running lights) Yellow ( left turn and brake)  green (right turn and brake) was pulled to the back of the trailer by taping the harness to the end of the fish tape. Once the harness is pull to the back of the trailer. Then a brown wire must be run from the back  to the center cross beam. You need a  brown wire to each fender for the tail light extensions. These lights on the fenders only have a single filament bulb so they are only running lights. No brake or turn signal. The only other thing to do is ground the white wire in the harness to the trailer. Most of the time this is up front at the receiver. 
 My master electrition Eric stopped over to help me facilitate wiring this part of the restore.

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Tomahawk

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Reply with quote  #10 
Pretty impressive staff you have on call to deal with those difficult trailer wiring issues.
canadafins

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Reply with quote  #11 
Del, the trailer is looking awesome!! It's great to see how other people in the hobby do things, you are an expert on these trailers and I have learned allot of good tips and techniques through your restoration postings.
Thanks , Brad Lake (Canadafins)
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