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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #46 
Here the original fin is shown with the cardboard and bondo extension removed.  As you can see, the inside edge of each fin is cut down at the attachment area on the rear deck.  This is the only aspect of the fin that makes them distinctive lefts and rights.  The finished fins will be cut back as needed.

The original, imperfectly proportioned, "exhaust outlet" has been reinserted and will be re-used in the restoration of the original boat.  The paint can lid, used as a stand in for the mold work, has now been discarded.

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #47 
It's time to make a set of templates to locate the cut line on the new fins that will be made for the reproduction boat. 

Here you can see the right hand fin taped off with newspapers awaiting the template.  The mat has been roughed out. 

This fin will soon be covered with green coat mold release and then the fiberglass mat will be replaced and coated with resin.  There is no need for gel coat as this is only a template and the appearance is unimportant.

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #48 
Here the left hand template is finished.  It is translucent, like a fiberglass light panel in a pole barn.  It will be easy to get the cut line in the right place using these perfectly fitted templates!

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #49 
Meanwhile, the work on the hull continues.  After being completely sanded for the first time, the port side reveals some low areas that need to be built up.  Duraglas was used to fill them and can be seen here in green.  It will need block sanding and re-gelcoating to catch it up with the right side.  At that stage final sanding and polishing should begin on both halves. 

Port, starboard, left, right?  Just remember, two of the words have four letters each.  Port and left match up! 

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #50 
While the sanding continues, yet another mold is in the works.

Motor wells were a relatively new idea in the late fifties.  Most boats I find from '58 on back were without them.  Most boats from '59 and up have them.  I don't know if there was a law made or a guideline changed or what.  They are always a good idea though.  Even on a deep boat like a Sea Lark, they will at least keep carburetor dribbles out of the hull!

The Motor well on my boat was attached as a separate piece.  Here you can see it both installed and removed.

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #51 
The mold is done a little differently for this part.  The shiny side is on the inside, so the new part will be formed on the outside of the mold.  Also, it is very difficult to sand and smooth the inside compound curves of the original motor well.  This mold will be sanded and polished after it is made.

The original piece was cut down for a 16" transom.  The cardboard shown in place on the back (or transom side) is there to make the mold into a long shaft version.  The original well will be re-used on the restored boat. 

Shown here, the work has already progressed pretty far.

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #52 
Here's the finished motor well mold ready for sanding and polishing.  The arrow points to an area where the inside edge is sharpened to allow for a lower drain tube.  Any water getting into this well drains through the transom.

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #53 
"Imagine you're a deer..."

As the next trim pieces are lined up for molding, a pair of Fiberglas deer forms look on from across the shop.  These forms fill the inside of the head during the taxidermy process. 

As I recall, Marisa Tomei had some thoughts on the subject in the movie My cousin Vinny

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #54 
KevFin

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Reply with quote  #55 
A Sea Lark has eight pieces of trim that run across the deck and down the length of the boat.  Half are red and half silver.  Here you can see the detail of these bands across the deck, the forward part of which is significantly lower.  The red pieces are 1/2 inch wide by 1/4 inch thick.  The pair of red strips that go on the side of my boat were missing.  In the second photo you can see where I replaced them with red electrical tape for the past few years of shows and photography.

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #56 
The first four pieces of trim are lined up on a perfectly flat board which will serve as the backing for the mold.  This will be a mold that makes four pieces at once.  In this photo, the outermost piece (on the right) is not yet extended to the proper length nor adjusted for fit.  The other three are mounted in place.

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #57 
As you can see, the ends of the larger trim pieces are hanging over the edge of the board.  They have a thicker cross section here so a scrap piece of wood will be placed beneath the overhang.  This is actually the front of the trim pieces.

Two of the smaller pieces were not present on the boat.  The two that are present cross over the deck and will be molded later. 

Examining these remaining small red trims, it became clear that a simple strip of wood from the local home and building supply store would do.  It was already the exact same size and contour as the missing parts.  Maybe we are duplicating the work that was done fifty some years ago.  I'll bet they used a simple strip of wood for their mold too!

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #58 
The rear edges of the side trim.  All of the side trim is held on using small bolts molded into the trim itself. 

This mimics the method used on fifties cars, where a number of holes are drilled through the body work and trim clips hold the stainless in place. 

Most boats used visible screws through the trim, but these trim attachments are all hidden on a Sea Lark.

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #59 
One concern about this particular mold was that the wide strips of trim running down the sides of the boat were not straight.  Here a straight edge is used to true them up.  It was necessary to re-drill some of the holes through the back board and carefully bend the pieces back into shape before re-tightening the screws.  Fortunately, this method worked just fine.

-KevFin

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KevFin

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Reply with quote  #60 
Here the end of the board is readied for the mold.  The overhang has been taken care of using scrap plywood and modeling clay.  This takes care of the extra thickness in the front ends of the trim.

-KevFin

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